What is a CSA?

You’ve probably heard the term “CSA” bandied about at your local farmers market and wondered what it meant. A CSA, or Community Supported Agriculture, is a way for you to participate directly with a farm. You are buying into a relationship directly with your farmer, similar to what you do at the farmers market, but the arrangement is beneficial to both of you in so many ways.

CSA “shares” are typically every week (full share), or every other week of the season (half share). By purchasing your “share” in advance you are helping to support the farm’s cash flow. You benefit from getting their products as they are harvested and the knowledge that you are supporting the farm directly. (It’s a great feeling!) There is also a bit of the unknown in the whole process. The day you pick up your share is when you find out what you are getting. That said, you need to be open to figuring out what you are going to do with what you get. Don’t worry, it’s not like you are going to get something that is a complete mystery. Your farmer will let you know what is in the box that day, and of course you always have me to ask!

You’re probably wondering why I would have decided to do this, especially since I visit the markets every week. (My husband certainly was wondering!) As a personal chef and caterer I am pretty much planning ahead for what I am going to do. While I do go to the market and find things that inspire me to cook a particular dish, it’s rare that someone hands me ingredients and says “do something with this.” That was intriguing to me.

When I found out that Gaia’s Breath Farm was offering shares I jumped at the chance. I’ve done a lot of collaborating with Mark Santoro and his sister Tara for many of my demos, and had the opportunity to visit his farm in Jordanville late last summer with Larry. I’ve had a a great time getting to know them both and using their incredible produce and proteins. Since I am at many markets every week I decided that a “half-share,” made the most sense. So let’s talk about what I got last week:

Breakfast Radish, Thumbalina Carrot, Chioggia Beet

Red Russian Kale

Bok Choy

Red Leaf Lettuce

I also got garlic scapes, garlic and spring raab. I know what you’re thinking: oh my gosh … how on earth can I handle all of that produce? It does sound like a lot, but with a little organizing and planning I used all of it in several dishes through out the week.

Let’s start with the kale first. Simply wash the leaves, strip off the tough stems and slice them thin. Then I sautéed the kale with a little olive oil, a couple of minced garlic cloves, salt and  pepper. Cook on low heat for about 5 minutes until the kale is tender, but not burnt. Remove from the pan and cool.

Larry wanted me to make turkey burgers this weekend, and instead of my typical spinach I decided to use half of the kale. In the same pan that I cooked the kale, I minced a couple of garlic scapes and sautéed them as well. After a quick check of my cabinet I found I was out of fresh breadcrumbs but did have some bulgar wheat. Hmmm, what if I used the bulgar instead of breadcrumbs? I made a couple of cups thinking I would use the balance of the bulgar and kale as another dish.  Everything needs to be cool when you put the burgers together so this is where your multi-tasking skills come in to play. While this does look like a lot going on, you will see with the recipe below it will all come together easily. Let me add two thoughts on the burgers:

First, this is one of my little nifty gadgets my mother got me years ago. It’s a Tupperware Burger Press. I’ve long since lost the pieces that hold the burgers and have just these parts left – not a problem – as this is all I need to make the most perfect patties!

Yes, of course you can make them by hand – but if you want nice even symmetrical burgers this is the way to go.

I decided to use Ancho Chili in the burgers as my main seasoning, so we topped the burgers with salsa as the condiment – with great success!

With the rest of my kale I simply mixed it in with a cup of cooked bulgar wheat and seasoned with a little olive oil, lemon juice and a zesty Lemon Pepper blend from Boxed Goodes, that I picked up at the John Jay Farm Market a few weeks ago. I used that as a side dish later in the week.

On another night I was grilling a couple of chicken breasts and wanted to try something different with my scapes. I found a box of  Kashi 7 Grain Pilaf in the cabinet and pulled together just a few other ingredients to add to it: cilantro and lime.

Following the instructions the pilaf took about 20 minutes. So while that was cooking I got the rest of the ingredients together and used Penzey’s Jerk Seasoning  on the chicken. The spicy jerk seasoning blended beautifully with the limey zip in the pilaf.

Now, what to do with my two nice heads of bok choy? Typically you see this ingredient chopped and used in Asian salads. I wondered what they might be like grilled? I’ve already used garlic scapes grilled, which renders them beautifully smoky and mild – so why not give it a try for the bok choy?

Driving home from my Pilates class I always pass Port Chester Seafood, which I’ve mentioned in previous posts. I knew I was going to grill the bok choy and scapes and thought why not get a few fish and throw them on too? Grilled fish might seem a little daunting, but again, it’s all about having the right gadgets to help you along. If you don’t have have a fish grill basket you can get one at just about any kitchen store or on-line. Just load in the (seasoned) fish of your choice and place on the grill. As you can see, I used whole fish, but you can easily use a filet. My only suggestion would be to keep the skin on the filet, and cook on the skin-side. That will keep it together and in one piece. Depending on the type of fish you get, you might not want to flip the filet on the grill. Check with your fishmonger when you make your purchase.

The fish I used was Orata, also known as Sea Bream or Dorada. Perfect for the grill. It has very few tiny bones, always a plus when dealing with a whole fish. Once the whole fish is grilled you remove the head and gently pull away the top skin. Slide your knife across the top edge of the fish to loosen the filet then use a spatula to gently flip it out. Carefully pull the back bone away and the bottom half will lift right out.

This dinner was also a great success, and relatively easy to put together. After a seasoning of olive oil, salt and pepper on my bok choy and scapes I grilled them for just a few minutes next to the fish. Once they got a little char on both sides I removed them to a pan and covered loosely with foil. I chopped up the scapes and tossed both with a little olive oil and balsamic. In particular I used a really tasty balsamic called Lemon Vincotto. I use it on many things as a finishing touch. You can buy it on-line, or pick it up at a specialty store. I get mine at Tarry Market. Just before serving I gave it all a squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of olive oil, another pinch of salt and pepper and topped with some fresh basil from my garden. Yum!

Let me quickly add a note about the carrots. These are “Thumbalina” carrots. They are just about the tastiest little carrots you will ever eat and they take no time at all to cook. I simply cook them just as I do beets: starting in cold water over medium high heat, with a little salt and sugar. (This is a small bunch, so I only used a half teaspoon of each in about 3-4 cups of water.) Once they are fork tender, and not mushy, pull them out and peel. These took me about 10 minutes, tops. The skins will rub away simply with a paper towel.

I still had beets, radishes and spring raab left from the box. Beets I talked about last week, and radishes a few months ago. For the spring raab, that is on the menu tonight. I’m going to be doing a simple sauté with a bit of garlic. I’ll have a few pictures of that next week.

While I do realize this was a long post for you this week, I hope I was able to show you that with a little planning and organizing you can take your share and work it into several dishes during the week. The key is to get it all home and spend an hour or so cleaning and packaging your greens and veggies. Once washed and air dried a bit, I wrap things loosely in paper towels and then in a produce bag. This will keep your things fresh as you use them during the week.

Buon Appetito!

Bella Cucina Maria’s Turkey Burgers
Makes about 5 patties

2 garlic scapes, chopped fine in a mini-prep
Extra virgin olive oil
1 cup tightly backed kale, medium chopped
1 lb ground turkey
½ – 1 teaspoon of Penzey’s Ground Ancho Chili 
Kosher Salt
Ground black pepper
¼ cup grated asiago cheese
1/3 cup cooked bulgar wheat
1 egg, OR 2 egg whites, beaten slightly
Salsa, optional

In a small sauté pan add 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the minced scapes with a pinch of salt and pepper and sweat for about 2 minutes. Remove to a small bowl to cool.

In the same pan add another 2 tablespoons of olive oil and sauté the kale with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook for about 2-3 minutes to soften. Remove to another bowl to cool.

In a large mixing bowl add the turkey and sprinkle 1 teaspoon each of salt, pepper and ancho chili over the meat. (If you want a little less spice use ½ teaspoon of chili.) Add the cheese, bulgar, egg, and cooled scape and kale. Mix well and form into patties.

The mix will be a little soft, so pop them into the freezer to firm up. Place on a well-oiled grill or non-stick sauté pan and cook about 4-5 minutes on each side, or until cooked through. Serve with your favorite salsa as a topping, with lettuce and tomato. (We’re both partial to Green Mountain, medium hot.)

Limey 7-Grain Pilaf
Makes 4 servings

1 cup of Kashi 7-grain pilaf
3 tablespoons of finely sliced garlic scapes, about 2 whole
Juice and zest of one nice juicy lime
1½ tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, plus more to taste
Kosher Salt
Ground black pepper
3 tablespoons of chopped cilantro

Cook the pilaf according to the box directions. Meanwhile, place the sliced scapes, lime zest, juice, olive oil and ¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper in the bottom of a medium bowl and whisk to combine. When the pilaf is done (it should be al dente) add it to the bowl and mix well.  Taste for seasoning and add a little more salt, pepper and olive oil if needed. Just before serving mix in the cilantro. 

Over the Rainbow with Chard!

Well, it's happened .. the markets are officially overflowing with all things green - and I love it! There seems to be a moment in June where this magic takes place. Every farm table has huge piles leafy greens. Multitudes of lettuce leaves, scallions, onions, spinach, kale, and bright beautiful chard. In particular: rainbow chard and the colors are just stunning.

I picked up this bunch from the Amawalk Farm table at the John Jay Market last weekend. I was there doing my demo and realized I had not taken the chance to walk around  and get a few things, so right at the end of the market I was able to grab that last 2 bunches of these beauties! I also picked up some garlic scapes from my favorite table Gaia's Breath Farm.

You can find chard easily in the produce section at the market, but now is the time to pick some up at the farmers market. Everyone has it and you know it was just harvested before they head to the market, making it super fresh. Chard is a great source of Vitamins A, K and C. The flavor is similar to spinach and beet greens, but I think a little sweeter and distinct. If the leaves are big like the ones above I would recommend a light sauté. If smaller you can add to your salad raw. The stalks, especially the bigger ones are tough, so sautéing is a must.

That said, you typically sauté the chard, maybe adding a little garlic, onion and perhaps bacon? It seems to be the thing to do with it. Or, as I mention above, if the leaves are young and tender it's lovely in a salad. But I've had cold soup on my mind over the past week. It's been just so hot here lately and a cold soup is just about the most perfect thing to have for a light lunch. Something that will fill up up, but not weigh you down. So I got to thinking ... why not try to create a cold chard soup?

Precision is not necessary here ... a rough chop is all you need. It's all headed to the blender when finished. I tossed in my scapes and the stems of the chard just to take the edge off and soften them a bit in some extra virgin oil.

Then I add in the roughly chopped leaves to wilt them down a bit too. After which I set the pan aside to cool a little.

I also spotted some corn this week.  A few farmers have it early, so I grabbed a couple this weekend too. I was thinking that once the soup was done it was probably just going to be bright green, and a bit of color and crunch would probably be really nice. After taking the corn off the cob I was trying to decide whether I needed to give it a quick blanch, but as luck would have it my "taste-tester" hubby showed up and we decided raw was the way to go. Since the corn was tender and sweet we both liked it right off the cob; but you can decide as you make this recipe. If you think they need a little blanch just do it quickly: 30 seconds in boiling salted water then drain in a fine sieve running cold water over the kernels to stop the cooking.

I was looking for simple ingredients here, so I only used water as the base. I wanted the chard flavor to come through. The result was amazing: the color is just so vibrant and the flavor is similar to spinach but earthier and fresh. Corn adds a nice crunch to the texture of the soup.

I hope you like this slightly different take on chard. It's the perfect answer for a hot summer day.

Buon Appetito!

Maria’s Rainbow Chard Soup
Makes about 1 ½ quarts

2 bunches of rainbow chard, about 2 ½ lbs
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
5 garlic scapes, about ¾ cup roughly chopped
2 ears of fresh corn, kernels removed from the cob
Kosher salt and freshly grated pepper

Chop off the stems just at the base of the leaf. From the top point of the stems chop them in ¼ inch pieces to make 1½ cups. Set them aside in a small bowl while you chop up the scapes. Add the chopped scapes to the bowl and then prep the leaves. Stacking 3 or 4 together roll them like cigar and slice them in to 1” strips. Set them aside. I ended up with 16 cups of leaves. Don’t panic if you have what seems to be a lot, remember, they are going to wilt down as they cook.

Over medium heat sauté the stems and scapes in the oil. Season with ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Cook for about 3-4 minutes until slightly soft.  Add the leaves to the pan along with 1 cup of warm water and a couple of pinches of salt.  Cook for another 4-5 minutes, tossing with your tongs. You want the chard to wilt slightly, but not burn. Set the pan aside to cool.

Once cool scrape all into a blender. (Depending on the size of your blender you may need to do this in batches.) Make sure you get all the olive oil and rendered liquid too. Add 2 cups of water and start blending. I ended up adding a total of 5 cups of water, but take it slow and keep checking the consistency, until you get it to your liking. Season with a little more salt and pepper, blend again and check the flavor. 

Remove from blender to a container and add 2/3 of the corn.  Place in ‘fridge to cool completely, about 2 hours. Check the flavor after it’s cold and season if needed. To serve garnish with the remaining corn and a drizzle of olive oil.

Purslane: a wonderful weed!

There are a few great things about visiting different Farmers Markets. First, you always find the nicest Market Managers willing to help you find just want you need – and second, you can find different vendors at different markets. I had my mind on doing something with lettuce greens this week and remembered a vendor at the Greenwich, CT Farmers Market: Two Guys from Woodbridge. Since I live in Port Chester that market is a breeze to get to. The Two Guys do a wide a variety of hydroponic greens on their farm and bring them contained in their root balls. That allows the greens to continue to thrive until you get them home. (Brilliant!) As I perused the table I noticed a small bunch of greens called purslane and decided to give them a try.

Let’s talk about Purslane. Yesterday I posted a picture of it on my Facebook page and my friend Ersilia, who owns Olive Oils of the World commented that she thought that was the stuff growing around her driveway. Well, truth be told, purslane is considered a wild weed in the U.S. So you’re probably saying to yourself: “Okay Maria, so why would I want to eat a weed?” Here is the amazing thing about this edible leafy plant: it’s completely loaded with vitamins and nutrients. It has more Omega-3 fatty acids than any other green leafy plant. It’s a rich source of vitamins A, B-complex, C, Iron … the list goes on and on. So my response: “Why not?” (Although I would add that it’s probably makes more sense to get this from a farmer rather than foraging around your driveway!)

Purlsane has a complex flavor, it’s slightly sour, salty and herbaceous. In scouring through my many recipes I wondered just how it might play in a soup? I came across a Food and Wine recipe that looked pretty interesting – so I thought I would give it a try. I did a little adjusting based on some things in my pantry, with great success. The result was a lovely cold zucchini soup that I would like to share with you today.

 
The original recipe suggests that arugula would be a good substitute if purlsane is not available. Since I had some in the ‘fridge I thought I would just add it to the soup.

Then everything goes in to the blender to be pureed.

After which you add some ice to thin it out. This took me about 20 minutes to put together, but the key is in the chilling. You could make this on a Sunday afternoon and enjoy it during the week. Just for good measure I added a dollop of plain yogurt which added a nice “creaminess” to the overall flavor.

I’ll have a few more cold soups coming for you as the summer kicks in to full swing. In the meantime, next week I’ll be talking trout – smoked trout that is, from Cabbage Hill Farm in Mt. Kisco.

Until then, Buon Appetito!

Cold Zucchini Soup with Purslane and Arugula
Serves 6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
½ cup onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, smashed
2-3 small zucchini, about 1 pound, sliced thin
2½-3 cups vegetable stock
3 thyme branches stripped, about ½ teaspoon
1 small bay leaf
1 tablespoon to chopped basil, more for garnish
¾ cup each of purslane leaves and baby arugula
1 cup of ice
Zest and juice of ½ a lemon
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
Plain Greek yogurt, optional

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, garlic and ¼ teaspoon each of salt and black pepper. Cook over medium heat until translucent and soft. Add the sliced zucchini with another ¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper and cook for about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme, bay leaf, 2½ cups of stock and bring to a boil for about 5 minutes. Try to submerge the zucchini under the stock. (You might need to add a little more if necessary.) Simmer for about 5 minutes then remove from heat to cool. Discard the bay leaf and stir in the chopped basil, purslane and arugula. Mixing the greens into the pot.

Working in batches, carefully puree the soup in a blender until very smooth. Transfer the zucchini puree to a large bowl and stir in the ice, zest and lemon juice. Taste the soup for seasoning. It’s important to check the flavor before it cools completely. (Flavors incorporate better when something is warm rather than cold.) Refrigerate the soup for at least 3 hours, until thoroughly chilled.
Just before serving add a dollop of yogurt, a little basil for garnish and a drizzle of olive oil.

Fiddling with Fiddlehead Ferns

“Fiddlehead.” What a whimsical name for a funny looking little vegetable. I love saying it; even funnier that when I hear it I am reminded of a line spoken near the beginning of Gone With the Wind by Scarlett O’Hara. Except I would like to think she might say today: “Fiddle-dee-dee, markets, markets, markets. All this talk of Farmers Markets are making me hungry! (Rather than her line about the war, of course!) Lucky for us we have many markets all over the country, and in particular our very own backyard of Westchester County.  Many run indoors through the Winter and Spring, and in just around the corner will be in full force outdoors. I am simply beyond excited!


This week and next I’ll be talking about two very special ingredients that make a brief appearance once a year in the Spring: Fiddlehead Ferns and Ramps. Beautiful in appearance yet different in flavor; today we will be fiddling around with fiddleheads.

Fiddleheads are basically the unfurled frond of a fern. After the last snow melts and the ground warms these beauties begin to push their way above ground. They are harvested at that point, just before they start to unroll and open. 


In selecting fiddleheads you want to look for a bright green appearance, smooth and free of dark spots. They should be green, fresh and firm looking; and the coils should look tight. Generally before they are sold the brown papery chaff that surrounds the fiddlehead on the plant is brushed off, but if not, you want to gently brush it off when you clean them. 


To prepare them I like to give them a good wash in a couple of changes of cool water to remove any bits of dirt that might be lurking about and then trim the stem if longer than 2 inches. If you don’t think you will cook them as soon as you get them home store your fiddles in a plastic bag; but only for a day or two. 


Fiddleheads are versatile and easy to use. They have a mild taste reminiscent of asparagus with an added nutty bite all their own. Fiddleheads are a good source of vitamins A and C, Omega 3 and 6, iron and fiber. Fiddleheads should not be eaten raw as they have a slight bitterness until cooked, and may cause you to have an upset stomach.

This nice bunch above was picked up at the Chappaqua Farmers Market at the Newgate Farm table. After a quick perusal of our cabinet I found a bag of oriecchette pasta and some roasted hazelnuts. In the ‘fridge I found Parmesan, basil and ramps. Simple! (My recipe is at the bottom of this post.) 

In a large pot of boiling salted water I cooked the fiddleheads for 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon I removed them to a bowl and then cooked my pasta in the same water. This a great tip for pasta making: use the water you cook your vegetables in to give your pasta a little additional flavor.

While the pasta is cooking I was able to get the rest of my prep done for the dish. I sautéed the ramps slightly, then added the fiddles to the pan. This particular pasta only takes about 12 minutes, so at just about that time I was able to add it right to the sauté pan. I tossed it a bit and added the Parmesan, basil and hazelnuts.

This dish took all of about 30 minutes from start to finish. Instant gratification! If you’ve never tried fiddleheads now is the time. Keep in mind they will only be at the markets for a few weeks. Get them while they are here! Next week I will be talking a little more about ramps. So if you make it to a farmers market this weekend, keep and eye out and bring a bunch home!

Buon Appetito!

Orecchiette with Fiddleheads
Serves 4


1 ½ cups of fiddlehead ferns, cleaned and trimmed (about 6 oz)
2 cups oriecchette pasta
4 ramps, or 2 scallions and 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¼ cup of fresh basil, chiffonade (thinly sliced)
¼ cup hazelnuts, roasted and roughly chopped
¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese, plus more for garnish
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Extra Virgin Olive Oil

In a large pot of boiling salted water (1 tablespoon kosher salt: 2 quarts water) cook the fiddleheads for 5 minutes, Remove with a slotted spoon to a dish. Add the pasta and cook according to the package instructions, less 1 minute.

In a sauté pan over medium heat add 4 tablespoons of oil and sauté the white part of the ramps for 2-3 minutes, taking care to not burn them. Season with a ¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Add the fiddleheads and lower the heat. Drain the pasta and add to the pan along with the ramp tops, Parmesan and basil. Toss gently.

Divide in bowls and garnish with hazelnuts, a drizzle of oil and a little more parmesan, to taste and serve immediately.